Having recently concluded the Chef and the Fatman "Erin Tour '09,"
it is my pleasure to highlight some of the amazing people, places
and culinary experiences we encountered while venturing across this
beautiful country. Simply put, Ireland is the most amazing country
I have ever visited! It has incredible natural and cultural beauty,
with historic ruins and buildings at every turn. Its people are as
proud of their sometimes grim heritage, including the ongoing struggle
for a free Ireland, as they are of their imports of Guinness and Jameson.
Ireland is a country that ABSOLUTELY MUST be on your travel agenda.
The Irish people, collectively, are the most fun, considerate, polite
and engaging people you will ever meet. A trip to Ireland will be
a DREAM COME TRUE, a dream that will stay in the deepest recesses
of your mind for years to come.
To begin the "Journey of a lifetime", start it out RIGHT! Go to Discover
Ireland.com and start the dream. DiscoverIreland.com
is an excellent website dedicated to bringing the very best of Ireland
to your home as you begin your journey.
Thank You to the wonderful folks at Tourism Ireland and Failte Ireland
for making our trip the most memorable ever.
Slainte,
Kevin "Fatman" Jenkins
Is O'Erinn me!
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Guinness
Brewery and Storehouse
It is easy to see why Guinness (perhaps the world's most recognized
beer) is celebrating 250 years of business. Simply taste ONE
Guinness at the company's sprawling, world famous Dublin brewery
(the Guiness Storehouse) and you'll know why. Rising above its
Dublin surroundings, the Storehouse is modeled upon a giant
pint glass, stretching up from reception area on the ground
floor to The Gravity Bar in the sky. Even those who are well
acquainted with a pint of the dark ruby beverage will find new
information about their favorite brew, and another adventure
awaiting them, as they make their way through the Storehouse.
And yes, you may even become certified in the art of pulling
the perfect pint of Guinness. The friendly Guinness "punters"
will gladly demonstrate the proper technique. Be sure to take
time out to sup at the Storehouse restaurant, which provides
a wonderful array of Guinness dishes by the awesome Chef "Jock."
Then finish your tour properly at the Gravity bar high atop
the "Pint" glass, with an amazing view of beautiful Dublin town.
The Guinness Storehouse is an Absolute MUST for any traveler
that spends even a second in Ireland.
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Bunratty Castle and Folk Park
Traveling across Ireland, searching for the country's BEST cultural,
historical and fun activities, we found Bunratty Castle and
Folk Park. What a delightful piece of Irish history, culture
and beauty! The centerpiece is Bunratty Castle, a 14th Century
castle that was painstakingly renovated to its former splendor
in the late 1950's and early 60's. Climb any of the four circular
staircases up to the ramparts and your efforts are rewarded
with a great view that reveals the castle's strategic location
between two rivers. Inside the great hall you are surrounded
by 500 year-old tapestries and other period pieces. Displays
within the kitchen, bedrooms, chapel and various other chambers
provide a good feel for how the castle's occupants must have
lived throughout the remote past. This feeling is enhanced by
the medieval feast in the dining hall, which you absolutely
MUST attend! From your first cup of mead through the final notes
of the madrigal singers, you are whisked back to ancient times
and treated like royalty. The cast of musicians/servers in period
garb provide an excellent evening of noble entertainment that
should not be missed! A 25 acre Folk Park surrounds the castle
and accurately portrays a "working" mid-1800's Irish rural village.
Characters dressed in period costumes ply their trades throughout
the village as they were practiced back then. We had the privilege
to watch Miss Mary make flat bread from scratch in the kitchen
of an "upscale" farmhouse. The peat fire griddle was a wonderful
reminder of the history of this magical country. Just a "light
stretch of the legs" from Bunratty Manor, the Bunratty Castle
and Folk Pak is a one - two memory maker you CANNOT miss.
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The
Jameson Distillery
The Irish have been known to sip a whiskey or two now and then,
and having been to the Jameson distillery and experienced the
world's finest whiskey (in my humble opinion) I know why this
custom exists! Jameson's triple-distilled whiskey is as smooth,
warm and inviting as its Dublin distillery. The distillery is
a beautiful state-of-the-art facility that "blends" the best
of the company's history with the latest in technology, media
and fine dining for their guests. As with so many other attractions
in Ireland, Jameson provides a first class tour with REALLY
nice people and leaves you wanting MORE. You must take the tour
and live the Jameson experience!
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Blarney Castle
Blarney Castle is perhaps the most famous landmark in all of
Ireland: home to the famous Blarney Stone! The story goes that
anyone kissing this stone is bestowed with the "gift of gab."
Although some may question whether the Fat Man ever needed to
kiss the Blarney Stone, I eagerly embraced it, nonetheless.
(I'll let you decide if the stone's charms have enhanced my
eloquence.) Blarney Castle is, indeed, a magical place drenched
in history and folklore. The castle's beautiful manicured grounds
include ancient Druid remnants and a geographic oddity - a stream
diverted over a bridge to flow across the River Martin - as
well as a living lord's manor, all on one magnificent site.
Take the castle tour, climb all 109 stairs to the battlements
and join the hundreds of thousands of "smoochers" in quest of
the "gift". Blarney Castle truly is a MUST for anyone fortunate
enough to tour this amazing land.
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Fitzwilliam Hotel
When a hotel receives a five-star rating you imagine a great,
fantastic maybe awesome. The Fitwilliam needs to have another
star as the above adjectives don't really describe this premier
property. From the time we arrived we received and observed unprecedented
customer service and assistance from the 2009 Concierge of the
year for all of Ireland Robert, great stories and assistance from
senior Bellman Tony unbelievable individual service and suggestions
from "Punter/Mixologist" Alex in the bar and superb breakfasts
from F&B Director Kevin. Combine the above with superb rooms (ours
overlooked historic and beautiful St. Stephens Green Park) and
perfect location the Fitzwilliam NEEDS another star. This is a
MUST stay when in Dublin, a true destination location. |
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The
Brooks Hotel
This wonderful hotel is centrally located in the heart of Dublin
and is another example of excellent accommodations and superb
location. Although we did not spend more than 8 hours at the
Brooks (as we had an early departure) we had enough time to
recognize the benefits and appreciation one could have at the
Brooks. The experience and the room was very good. The bar managers
were friendly and engaging as were everyone on the staff we
encountered. A very desirable address for your touring pleasure,
well appointed rooms and a very courteous staff makes the Brooks
an excellent choice for your Dublin stay.
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Ballymaloe
Cooking School
Ballymaloe is a true culinary and cultural treasure of Ireland.
This amazing estate is the home of chef Darina Allen, who Ireland's
Minister for Food and Horticulture has called the "Queen of Irish
Cuisine." Among her many accomplishments, she has almost single-handedly
elevated Irish cuisine to international reknown while avidly encouraging
sustainable organic farming practices and consumer support for
local farmers as key elements in her crusade to bring the art
of cooking, with its many economic and health benefits, back to
the masses. Chef Allen doesn't just "talk the talk," she practices
what she preaches. Her Ballymaloe Cookery School is the world's
only culinary school that is sustained by its own organic farm.
She supplements the produce from her 100-acre farm by purchasing
foodstuffs (organic, when possible) from local farmers. Chef Allen
actually started Ireland's first Farmers Market, and her passion
in supporting local farmers and sustainable yields is as infectious
as her warm, engaging personality. But she is equally concerned
about teaching people to be better food consumers by (re)introducing
them to the culinary arts. We can all eat healthier, for less
money, she says, by learning once more how to select nutritious
foods and prepare our own meals. Improved cooking skills also
translate to higher expectations for our restaurant meals. When
combined with her buy local, buy organic, food ethic, Chef Allen's
culinary philosophy seeks to alter consumer eating and spending
practices, transforming our inherently wasteful and questionably
healthy agricultural and retail industries in the process. You
need only spend but a few minutes with this amazing chef before
you, too, become a believer. Chef Allen is a true leader in her
field. As a teacher she has inspired thousands of successful chefs
and home cooks. Two of the chefs we met at the Bunratty Manor
are Ballymaloe graduates - and their food is AWESOME! If you have
any passion for cooking and learning, Ballymaloe Cookery School
is for you. To a person, as we traveled about Ireland and asked
men and women about Chef Allen, each responded positively. The
typical answer was energetic - their faces brightened and they
replied to this effect: "OF COURSE Ballymaloe is 'brilliant,'"
or "magic." "Her recipes are amazing" and so on. What a testament
to a true Chef, in every sense of the word. Ballymaloe is the
culinary Camelot that actually exists! Book it, Danno. |
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 Leo
Burdock's Fish and Chips
This shrine of a restaurant has been serving Fish and Chips
to Dubliners and toursists fourtunate enough to find it over
96 years. It is probably the easiest landmark you can get directions
to by ANYONE on the street. I spent the better part of four
days in search of the best fish and chips in Dublin. From the
very beginning to a person Leo Burdock's was the choice however,
I tried a number of other places and YES, LB's is the PLACE
baby! Easy to get to and oh, by the way - there is no place
to sit down and eat. It is strictly take and go! A true culinary
MUST for lovers of all things fried!
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The
Cliffs of Moher
County Clare's spectacular, craggy coastline is a natural wonder:
several cliffs reach more than 700 feet above the Atlantic Ocean
along an erratic, undulating six-mile expanse. On a clear day
you can see the entire cliff line as well as the Arran Islands
and Galway Bay. You'll be enchanted, even mesmerized, watching
immovable solid greet irrepressible liquid in an endless ballet
at the base of the cliffs. The ocean's vast anonymity gradually
acquires more distinct character, changing color and form, as
it approaches land. Rolling swales of deep blue-green crest into
white-capped offspring only seconds before rending upon sea stacks
and jagged cliffs, dissipating kinetic energy in sheets and fragments
of foamy white and light green-gray. Thousands of sea birds cavort
beneath you - tiny white specks that soar and tumble effortlessly
before the cliffs' immense dark mass. All the while crisp ocean
breezes carry salty scents, and the incessant rumblings of ongoing
discord, to your perch far above the ancient drama being perpetually
re-enacted below. The Cliffs of Moher are simply a breathtaking
MUST SEE: truly another incredible example of Ireland's beauty.
Allow a minimum of two hours to take in the breadth of this natural
wonder, and hope for a sunny day. Plan on taking awe-inspiring
pictures of the cliffs, especially in the afternoon when the western
sun reveals the subtle elements of their otherwise monolithic
character. |
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Kilmainham
Gaol (Jail)
Among many reasons for visiting Ireland, I hoped to gain a
deeper understanding of the country's history. An important,
and deeply painful, part of Ireland's history is the centuries-old
struggle for a FREE IRELAND. To really appreciate the suffering
of the Irish, plan a tour of Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin. Built
in 1796 and in use until 1924, the jail is a national symbol
of Ireland's repression under British rule. Kilmainham's thick
limestone walls held commonplace criminals as well as political
prisoners, including some of the most famous patriots for Irish
freedom. Conditions in the damp, horrifically overcrowded jail
were often brutal and unsanitary. By the early 20th century
more than seven thousand inmates lived throughout Kilmainham’s
corridors, having overflowed cells designed to hold mere hundreds.
Narrow, barred windows brought in some light but lacked glass
panes. Inmates were consequently exposed to the elements. Living
in unheated quarters, they were poorly clothed and supplied
only with thin woolen blankets as insulation against winter's
chill and the cold stone floors. They ate mostly bread and water.
Time served at Kilmainham was physically and mentally demanding
for even the hardiest adults but especially so for younger "criminals."
More than a few inmates were small children sentenced to years
of imprisonment (just like their elders) for stealing food during
hard times. Many did not survive the jail's harsh conditions.
Several leaders of the 1916 Easter Uprising were executed within
Kilmainham's walls. At first inmates convicted of capital offenses
were hung from the landing above the jail's main entrance -
a "hanging day" spectacle that entertained crowds
over the years before surging Irish nationalism forced British
authorities to conduct lethal punishment indoors. One of many
exhibits within the jail's museum provides a silent, and moving,
tribute to the deceased patriots. It displays their final writings,
which range from personal notes meant for loved ones to political
justifications of their actions that the authors hoped would
reach the Irish public. Kilmainham is slowly being renovated
to its former operational condition, largely through the efforts
of dedicated volunteers. The tour through Kilmainham's deserted,
yet still forbidding, passages and courtyards was a sobering
experience. Stepping, even momentarily, into one of the dank,
confined cells was equally disturbing. While hardly a "fun"
tour, our knowledgeable and personable guide made this incredible
journey through a grim period of Irish history well worth the
time. Be forewarned; many of the guides' stories are extremely
moving. Consider Kilmainham Gaol a "must do" if you
truly want to "know" the Irish people.
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Blarney
Golf Resort
Nestled in the beautiful Shournagh Valley, just outside the famous
town of Blarney in County Cork, is the world-class Blarney Golf
Resort. This gorgeous facility boasts spacious, first-rate accomodations
along with an excellent restaurant, large gym with sauna, Olympic-size
pool and a challenging golf course designed by PGA Pro John Daly.
The resort offers everything the most demanding traveler could
want. We arrived there at the end of a hectic, four-day show schedule.
With just one night to unwind, Blarney Golf Resort proved the
perfect remedy. A rejuvenating sauna, excellent dinner, good night’s
rest in plush king-sized beds, and a hearty breakfast put us back
on the road in fine spirits! The staff was truly amazing – as
helpful and considerate as you could hope for. "Ask and you
shall receive" must be the motto of this top-shelf staff
which simply doesn't say NO. The Blarney Golf Resort is first-class
all the way! Make it YOUR stop along the road and you will thank
us for years to come! |
| Bunratty Manor Hotel Bunratty Manor is a true "family" hotel
that offers quality accommodations combined with superb customer
service. Noel and Fiona Wallace are consummate hoteliers who elevate
friendly service to an art form. This intimate hotel is a "must
stay" location while in south-central Ireland. Homey appointments
and comfortable beds welcome the weary traveler, while the Manor's
excellent menu surprises the palate. The food was absolutely scrumptious
(befitting the chef's training at Ballymaloe) and included the
best seafood chowder we ate in Ireland! Fine accommodations, superb
customer service, owners who truly represent the best of Irish
hospitality, excellent, reasonably priced food and drink at the
pub and restaurant…..WOW, what a find! |
   Keogh's
Bar and Restaurant
Nestled amongst the quaint buildings in the picturesque rural
fishing village of Kinvara on the coast road between Galway and
Clare lies a culinary gem known as Keogh's Bar & Restaurant. This
quaint establishment has all the homey trappings of a "local"
pub that you would dream of, old wooden floors a warm cozy peat
fire burning in the large fireplace with the traditional black
stove….plenty of locals drinking, socializing and many dining
on the wonderful fare. As we were heading back to Dublin near
the end of our 10 day journey we spied Keogh's and stopped for
some lamb shanks and a spicy chicken dish. The food was bountiful,
very tasty, and reasonably priced. The menu has much more to offer
with salmon, seafood chowder, crab, mussels and prawns along with
more traditional local fare. The desserts looked heavenly, I wanted
to try the rhubarb crumble BUT I got there too late - they were
out. So we settled for some homemade bread pudding that would
have brought a tear to the eyes of even the best chefs of New
Orelans. If you're anywhere near the Bay of Kinvara, stop and
tip a pint and sup a great meal at Keogh's, and on your way out
take a look beside the entranceway on Main St. -you might recognize
some of the culinary awards they have won! |
Bunratty
Manor Hotel
Bunratty Manor is a true "family" hotel offering quality
accommodations combined with superb customer service. Noel and
Fiona Wallace are consummate hoteliers who elevate friendly service
to an art form. This intimate hotel is a 'must stay'' location
when you're in southwest Ireland. Homey appointments and comfortable
beds welcome the weary traveler while the Manor's excellent menu
surprises the palate. The food was absolutely scrumptious (befitting
the chefs' training at Ballymaloe Cookery School) and included
the best seafood chowder we ate in Ireland! Located just down
the road from Bunratty Castle, the manor's welcoming accommodations,
superb customer service provided by owners who truly represent
the best of Irish hospitality, plus excellent, reasonably priced
food and drink at the pub and restaurant, make Bunratty Manor
a genuine value, WOW, what a find! |
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